How do I adjust the clutch ?
what would make my ingition coil fuse keep blowing out?
can the clutch be adjusted (87000 miles)
print out to replace thorw out bearing on this car whant to do it ourselves and save 500.00
print out to replace thorw out bearing on this car whant to do it ourselves and save 500.00
How to fix the clutch
how to take out a slave cylinder in a 5 speed tranny
I have bleed the clutch for more than 30 minutes for 2 days straight, but it is not working. If bleeding the clutch isn't working, what else can be done?
Are they any break downs of straight shift 5 speed I could look at. Befor I take mine apart?
Last weekend I put in one of your SB Clutches MU 13-1.25 ConO. My question is, When I let out on the clutch in first gear or second gear the truck shimmies before it starts rolling. I have ~750 stop and go miles on the new clutch and it is not slipping under torque....Sweet. Will the shimming decrease in time? Thanks in advance, Lloyd Baird
Ilose hydraulic pressure @ pedal, clutch plate seems to have a lot of "meat" left, I pump pedal and get it back. Checked master cylinder and doesn't seem to be any loss of fluid. Any ideas on what may be the problem?
Bruce,
Yes, replace your hydraulics.
Peter
kimmi,
Sorry, that is not our field of expertise.
Peter
Bob Hammer,
Your truck should be a hydraulic actuated not a cable actuated.
Peter
Leo,
Pump the pedal rapidly approx. 25 times or more holding in on the pedal with the last pump, crack the bleeder to allow air to escape. Close the bleeder and repeat as needed.
Peter
otis,
I would recommend buying a PB 50 F brass bushing and a PB 50 P needle bearing then bore the brass bushing to press fit the needle bearing. This should give you the correct inside/outside diameter.
Peter
Mark,
Your master cylinder is mounted to the firewall and there will be a reservoir with a cap. Try following the line from the bell housing up to better locate.
Peter
Jimmy Jones,
I would recommend our MU 13-1.25 Con O or OFE depending on your horse power. Feel free to call us with further questions.
Peter
john,
Pump the pedal and crack the bleeder or take it to a garage with a power bleeder.
Peter
Tara,
The bleeder will be protruding out of the bell housing. You have an internal slave assembly. It will be right next to where the line enters the bell housing.
Peter
Kent Miller,
I believe you have a modular style of clutch which can be a little salty in price. Clutch parts, depending on your area, may run around $300-400 and the labor will run approx. the same.
Peter
Paul Smith,
I would recommend going to your local library for the installation procedure.
Peter
Joe Miller,
Check to make sure you did not damage the pilot bearing and that it is the CORRECT pilot bearing. Bearings can be funny so check you ID of the pilot and OD of the shaft.
Peter
Vickie Ramirez,
No, there is no adjustments, but it is standard policy to replace the hydraulics when replacing the clutch.
Peter
Robert,
These clutch systems are not adjustable.
Peter
barry jones,
No, it cannot be adjusted.
Peter
hburback,
I'm sorry, we do not have printouts for each and every vehicle for clutch installations. To replace the bearing you simply remove the transmission and your clutch system is inside. Remove and replace bearing. If I were going to go that far I would definitely replace the entire clutch system not just the throw-out bearing.
Peter
jesse,
Take it to a garage and have them replace it.
Peter
Jake,
The slave cylinder is internal, you must remove the transmission.
Peter
Larry,
Replace the slave and master, get one from the dealer that is pre-assembled.
Peter
Larry Henegar,
Sorry, I don't have anything like that, try your local library.
Peter
Lloyd,
Yes, unless the pp got tweaked a little on install it should definitely go away with time. Try driving the truck a little more aggressively to help seat it.
Peter
Steve,
I'm sure you're drawing a little air in from somewhere, I would recommend replacing the hydraulics.
Peter
About a year ago I had a mechanic replace my clutch, throwout bearing and pressure plate. Now the clutch does not seem to disengage unless I almost stand on the clutch pedal. Is there a way adjust the clutch so the pedal will disengage in a higher position or do I have another problem. How do I fix this?
does the '93 Protege clutch have an adjustment?
truck will not move when put in gear 1,2 and will not start in neutral but when clutch is ingage will start. please help,robert
How to bleed clutch on a 2002 ford escape
Does a '92 chevy cavalier use a pilot bearing. I didn't notice one when I took the clutch out, but the kit came with one, please help!
i put the truck in to gear and it feels like the clutch is not all the way out and the clucth only has 16000 miles on it what can i do
The car starts but when trying to put into gear it does nothing , it catches when not running, can this be fixed by adjusting the clutch or something else? How do i adjust the clutch if it can be adjusted????
hydralic clutch,keep bleedind it but in morning loose clutch,also as driving the faster i go the lower the clutch drops.please help
Have a standard transmission with manual clutch. The clutch seems to engage at the top of the pedal. I have 49000 miles of which is mostly city driving (stop and go). How do I determine if I need a clutch adjustment or it needs replacement. Is this something that can be done only by a auto mechanic or can a person with some mechanical skills do the work? Thanks, Joe
I have owned this truck for about 7 months now and am replacing the plastic clutch master cylinder for the third time because they keep cracking close to where the line fitting is. I am told this is a design problem but is there something else? The pedal resistance is firm but not overly so. Please help.
how to adj clutch on eaton synchro 6
transmisson problem
We ordered a pb 286 kho pilot bushing but didn't receive the dimensions for the hole size. Could you email me the diameter for the flywheel hole? Thanks, Mark
I'm looking for someone to replace the clutch material on my six puck aftermarket clutch disk.
My clutch remains partially engaged. I was shifting from 2nd to 3rd and after I disengaged from 2nd it would not engage to third. With the vehicle off, I can put it in gear. When I start the vehicle with the cluth pedal fully depressed, it still remains partially engaged and will not re-engage gears
my clutch does not seem to fully disengage. yesterday it was fine today ???? truck has only 14,000 easy miles. Fluid level is fine.
Johnny,
It could be a number of things, pilot bearing, hydraulics, or firewall deterioration.
Peter
Brian,
No, it does not.
Peter
Dan,
Did you replace the clutch fork when you did the job?
Peter
Warren,
You can try to adjust the clutch at the firewall but if it is slipping that bad then it's time for a new clutch. Make sure to check the clutch fork while you're in there.
Peter
Jim,
You need to replace the hydraulic system.
Peter
Joe Caezza,
With hydraulic clutch systems the closer the top to the pedal the clutch engages or disengages is a sign of being worn. There is no adjustment so once you reach the top it is time to replace the clutch.
Peter
Justin,
The first thing I would do is find out if the clutch was replaced. If it was it is possible that the bearing was installed incorrectly on the clutch fork. this would cause undo resistance. Other then that it is possible that the master cylinder is building pressure and blowing the slave. The next time you do the job replace the master and the slave at the same time.
Peter
ozzie,
If it is an adjustable pressure plate you do it on the clutch itself. Have someone push in on the clutch pedal to release the clutch then, depending on the style of clutch you have, you will need to rotate the ring clockwise until the clutch is adjusted. If you would like a little clearer answer refer to our semi-truck catalog portion of our webpage and there is an adjustment section.
Peter
Mike,
Call a transmission shop.
Peter
Mark A Nolf,
Sorry about that, the flywheel should be bored to 1.380" + or - .001".
Peter
Horacio,
Well you found the right place! LOL We have many different materials so feel free to call us at our toll free number and ask for Eddie.
Peter
Mike Ramsey,
You either have a problem with the clutch itself or the clutch cable.
Peter
Ross,
Even with the fluid level fine it could still be the hydraulics. I would take it back to the dealer.
Peter
replaced t5 trans with world class t5 didnt remove bellhousing but now clutch feels different and pedal is higher it still works fine just feels different is there any way i can lower the pedal where it was??? thanks
need to replace slave cylinder, not sure on how to do it, and do i need to replace master cylinder as well?
My 93 Honda Accord EX clutch pedal goes to the floor board and stays. I checked the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and it is still full. I then have to drain the fluid and add more fluid and the pressure then comes back in the pedal. Can you please advise
I CHANGE THE CLUCTH ON THE TRUCK,IT'S HAS 5 SPEED TRANS.I PUT THE STICK IN TO 1ST.AND LET GO THE CLUCTH AND THE TRUCK DOESN'T WANT TO MOVE,I CAN SHIFT THE TRANS IN ALL THE GEARS,AND IT STILL DOESN'T WANT TO MOVE.SOME ONE TOLD ME THAT MAYBE THE PART STORE GAVE ME THE WRONG CLUTCH FOR MY TRUCK.
How do I adjust my clutch cable
Can I use your stage3 Clutch kit with my existing flywheel? If not Can a flywheel be purchased seperatly
I can not get my slave cylinder out of my jeep. it is completely disconnected except for the two hose/pipes. the bolt is stripped and i cant get it off.
I have recently put in performance products in my truck and the clutch slipes in 4th and 5th gear i have a rough etimate that my truck has 330 horse power and i pull hay in the summer and i wanted to go the enexpensive way on buying a clutch i was wondering if the mu009 rally clutch would hold up good
How do I adjust the clutch pedal on a 99 ford mustang with a 3.8l v6
my honda starts fine but wont move at all
Kaleb,
I would always recommend changing both the master and the slave. As to how to do it, start with the master cylinder and work your way down to the slave cylinder. Put it back on how you take it off. If you need pictures you might try your local library.
Peter
T. Mobley,
I would recommend replacing the master and slave. It sounds like you have a leak somewhere that is allowing air to draw in.
Peter
FREDDIE PASOQUEN,
This only a guess, but I would say that you replaced the bearing and slave assembly. With your year truck the replacement assembly comes as a whole unit, meaning the bearing is full length. When you removed the old slave you did not remove the piston that makes it a 2 piece. Now you are collapsing the clutch assembly. You need to get back into the trans and remove the little piston that is left.
Peter
Christa,
If it's an older cable actuated toyota then it is adjustable where it passes through the firewall. If it is a newer truck then it is most likely hydraulic and not adjustable.
Peter
Becca,
If you are going to replace the slave assembly just cut it or break it. However it is internal so you need to remove the transmission to remove it.
Peter
Brandon Davidson,
At that horse power level I would think the Rally clutch would be suitable for your application.
Peter
Luis,
There is a ratchet system on the clutch itself, to reset you must pull up on the clutch pedal. If that does not work, you will need to replace the system.
Peter
Brandy Lane,
If you have a manual transmission it sounds like your clutch has met it's life. Replace the clutch and you should be fine.
Peter
Is there a clutch free play ajustment on the Ford f150? If so how is it ajusted? thanks for the help
I recently bought a "project" car real cheap, it needed a new clutch,which I did myself, but I need to know what kind and how much fluid to replace in the gear box than you.
how long does it take to replace a hydraulic slave cylinder for the cltuch on a six cylnder
Is my clutch burnout? If not What is the problem? The floor clutch seems to be fine. Non of the gears will engage when shifter/stick is pu into gear 1st thur reverse. None of the gears are responding? Please help
Michael
If the clutch pedal feels normal and you can shift into gear but the car does not move forward then I would guess the clutch has reached its life.
Peter
ben
If it is an internal slave it will take removing the bell housing and will take a good 4 to 5 hours. You should replace the clutch while you are in there.
Peter
tony
Sorry I can not help you on that.
Peter
Gordy
No, there is not. You have a hydraulic system that is non-adjustable.
Peter
my 94 ford ranger has a problem, it shifts fine but in every gear but the problem is the rpm's go up before it seems to catch and go....if i am on the interstate and start to go up a little hill again it willl wind up the rpms a little b-4 it catches. a friend of mine tells me it is the clutch going out. the truck has 140,000 miles on the original clutch. sound like the clutch or tranny?....please respond
my clutch started slipping couple months back and recently gave up completly not alloing any gears to be engaged I decided to replace the pressure plae disk and throw out bearing. now that the new components have been installed and the car back together the clutch still seems not to engage. when i pree the clutch down i hear a whining noise and am not able to get into gears, iver checked all the linkage and everything seems ok please let me know what you think i should check to try figure out the problem...thanks
how to tell whether the master or the slave cyl is bad
My question is which way does the spring mount on the mushroom for the release fork? Mine came off when attempting to replace release bearing. I sure could use a picture or illustration-there is no picture in the Ford manual.
Thanks
The car absolutly will not go into gear! what is wrong, is it the clutch or the pressure plate?
Mike Atkins,
It is definitely a clutch issue. Replace the clutch.
Peter
Kel Lang,
If it is not the clutch fork that is the issue and you are hearing a whining noise I would think that your transmission has issues. Take it to a tranny shop and have the transmission looked at.
Peter
Derick White,
If you are unable to get your transmission into gear without grinding this is an indicator that the hydraulics are weak, also, if there is a pedal change in strength, meaning getting weaker.
Peter
Paul Peters,
Not quite sure what spring you're talking about, there is however, a plastic pin that goes through the fork into the hole in the side of the throw-out bearing flange. This holds the bearing to the fork for return purpose.
Peter
Kelly,
It could be the clutch disc or the pressure plate or the cable. I would start on the outside and work my way in.
Peter
Does pushing the clutch in and coasting to a stop in gear horrible for your manual truck?
Hello. I just got a new clutch kit from SLP Performance parts. Including Steel billet flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate.. I also replaced the slave and master cylinder with a kit from GM... The clutch doesn't disengage fully making it hard to get into gear. I have to shut the car off to get into reverse without grinding. When driving, the car shifts fine, however, shifting is still a little rough... also, at idle when in neutral with the clutch engaged, there is a pretty good pulse coming up into the pedal.... And sometimes when I take off from a stop the clutch really chatters... I've done this type of work before, and had an experienced friends help as well. Bottom line is, the thing is awful... The clutch doesn't slip or anything, just shifting problems, the chatter from take off, and the pulsing pedal, and pedal vibration all around.... PLEASE HELP! I know that I have to take the thing apart again, but I would like to know what I'm looking for... I have a few ideas, but I was just looking for some further help.... By the way... ALL parts were cleaned very well before installation.
Thank you very much for any help you can offer.
Is there any defining symptom to distinguish a slipping clutch from failing master or slave cylinder?
how to adjust the clutch
I have a Chevy 2002 3500 dually with a 6 speed and pulla fifth wheel travel trailer. Had a new cluthc installed by dealership in Florida 1100 miles ago but it will not hold to park trailer in reverse slips like crazy almost burned it out parking it in slightly inclined drive way when I got home. Do you have anything that would help with this slippage of the clutch? I cannot afford to trade trucks for diesel auto. Thanks Jim
my clutch goes to the floor with no resistance, which means I can't get it into gear. I bled it but only got worse, before I bled it I could just barely get it into gear. New clutch intalled last Oct. Any ideas?
my clutch goes to the floor with no resistance, which means I can't get it into gear. I bled it but only got worse, before I bled it I could just barely get it into gear. New clutch intalled last Oct. Any ideas?
The clutch stuck on my backhoe during the winter months. Have not been able to unstick it. Only option I know left if to break it down which is quite a job with attachment removals. Any good ideas? thanks,Mickey
I Just put your 13 1.25 con ofe in my dodge. After the finishing up and starting the truck , it wouldnt go in gear. So i turned the truck off and placed it in gear and started it, It pulled against it self and slipped the clutch then because the truck wasnt warm killed the truck. I never let the clutch out though. Ive checked all the master and slave cyl. and they all seem fine. Im sure i put the throwout bearing in correctly. Is this because the pres. Plate is to tight? What should i do? Thanks
I was having trouble getting my truck into gear when it was running. Then the other day as i was heading home, i had the truck in gear and was driving when all of a sudden it wouldn't drive anymore, I had thought maybe the slave cylinder was going out when I couldn't get it into gear, but now I have no idea what's wrong.
I was having trouble getting my truck into gear when it was running. Then the other day as i was heading home, i had the truck in gear and was driving when all of a sudden it wouldn't drive anymore, I had thought maybe the slave cylinder was going out when I couldn't get it into gear, but now I have no idea what's wrong.
After stopping the car it refuses to go into any gear unless shut off first. Once running everything is smooth and shifts easily untill stopped. I can feel the clutch pressure at 1/4 pedal and can find no leaks. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
After stopping the car it refuses to go into any gear unless shut off first. Once running everything is smooth and shifts easily untill stopped. I can feel the clutch pressure at 1/4 pedal and can find no leaks. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I just bought a 94 protege and knew that the clutch was slipping so i got the price dropped $250. I thought that it would cost around $350 but im yet to get a quote under $445. Is there an adjustment that could at least stall my problem?
Is it possible to replace the shiftrod seal in the transmission without removing the entire transmission?
When releasing the clutch pedal, the sound of rattling can be heard just before the gear engages. This happens at normal speeds especially in low gear. Is it something I shuld be concerned about?
how do i bleed the clutch on my 4dr. civic ex. i think i might need to replace my clutch i just want to see if bleeding it will fix the current problem i am having with it...
thank you dj
can i adjust the hydralic clutch on my saturn
On average, since i replaced the engine in my probe with a newer used engine that had allegedly 50,000 miles on it, my car has been burning about a quart of oil per gas tank. There are no leaks of any sort in the engine, could the valve seals be the problem?
Rocco Torres,
If it is a push type, meaning throw-out bearing is separate from the pressure plate, then you have the bearing installed on the fork, I would also check to make sure the fingers on the pressure plate are even where the bearing rides. If it is a pull type, meaning the bearing is connected to the pressure plate fingers, then I would check to make sure that the bearing is clipped into the fingers correctly.
Peter
Pete,
Failing master or slave cylinder will cause problems with disengagement on clutch whereas a worn out clutch does not have a problem with disengagement but slips when accelerated.
Peter
Bob,
It is a hydraulic clutch and is not adjustable.
Peter
Jim,
Yes, we have different styles of clutch discs that will increase the torque capacity of the clutch itself, feel free to give us a call.
Peter
Robin,
Yes, your hydraulics are bad.
Peter
Mickey Trussell,
Try raising the back tires slightly off the ground making sure the vehicle is in gear and the tires are spinning. Then quickly drop the jack to try and pop the disc loose. In the future, when parking you vehicle or equipment for a period of time it is always wise to take a piece of wood and block the clutch pedal down in a release position, this will alleviate any adhering in the winter months.
Peter
Lucas,
I don't believe the pressure plate is too tight and if they hydraulics are functioning properly I would be afraid that the pressure plate is not bolted down correctly. Feel free to call me on this matter.
Peter
Kyle Wilcoxson,
It sounds like your clutch disc has disintegrated. My suggestion would be to replace the whole clutch assembly.
Peter
Troy,
Sounds like your pilot bearing is failing. It will require you to back the transmission out and inspect the clutch thoroughly.
Peter
Jon,
No, there isn't. The only thing you can do is drive the vehicle moderately.
Peter
Chad,
You will need to ask a transmission shop this question.
Peter
Peter Deane,
Yes, I would remove the clutch and inspect for any broken or worn parts. I would also have the transmission inspected.
Peter
chryllewis,
No, you can't.
Peter
Chad,
That could be very possible but I would talk to an engine specialist on this matter.
Peter
dj,
There should be a bleeder on the slave cylinder.
Peter
do you have a lightened flywheel to go with the mu1947con fe clutch
I have the MU 13-1.25 Con OFE clutch in my 99 3500 Dodge. The clutch has been in service since June 2002 and I have about 60,000 miles on it. I am getting a slight chatter at take off but my biggest issue is in backing up with a trailer the chatter is terrible. (to the point where I have to stop and start again to get it to stop) What can I do short of pulling the clutch and refacing the flywheel and replacing the clutch and pressure plate?
Thanks
Dave
no clutch pressure can shift to any gear while engine is running nothing happens.could it be clutch is bad or hydraulic cylinder no gear engages any ideas would be helpful thanks tom
Does the top of the transmission need to be removed before we can drop the trans to get to the clutch?
how can i tell if i need a new clutch ! is there any thing i can do ! or if it getting thin !its a hydrolic clutch and its self adjusting is there any simple way to find out please help me
I am still having trouble with my Con OFE that I installed when I converted my '98 to an NV5600. It is very hard to get the trany into first and reverse when at a stand still. It is the worst when hot. The friction point is at mid pedal if not past the middle some. I have driven this thing like this for over 19k miles and it has not improved at all. If I depress the clutch and hold the shifter up against 1st it will try to move forward and then if I keep forcing it, it will drop in. I have gotten used to just grabbing 2nd and then into first. I replaced the hydraulics after talking with Peter some time back even thought I figured they were okay just to rule that out and no help at all. I am currently running Amsoil 5w30 HDD right now. I have also run the factory oil with no difference at all. I did this same conversion to my uncle's '98 and his works fine. My cousin also has a Con OFE in his '97 with NV5600 and it too works just fine. Other then being hard to get into gear the clutch seems to work fine and is not overly rough or chattery for a performance clutch. I bought this clutch from you in January of '03. Do you have any ideas of things I might try or look for? I have installed many clutches and never had one act quite like this.
Thanks, Mark
P.S. Don't forget this was a conversion clutch to adapt a 1-3/8" input shaft to a stock 1998 flywheel.
What is the easiest way to remove the flywheel?
HOW DO I BLEED THE THE NEW CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
fritz minder,
Funny that you ask that, we are having an aluminum flywheel made and we would like to have someone who is willing to put it in and check it out. Please give us a call and we can give you some kind of time frame. If you would like the stock flywheel cut out and lightened we can certainly do that for you.
Peter
Dave,
Try this, I want you to try and deglaze the clutch. Put it in reverse without a load, slightly let off on the clutch pedal until you START to get engagement, holding it there, raise the RPM up, repeat in first gear. What you are trying to do is make the clutch disc scrape the two surfaces without creating heat. This should help smooth the clutch out.
Peter
Tom,
It could be a number of things. If you can shift gears, I doubt it's your hydraulics. It will take getting inside to the clutch to see where the problem really lies.
Peter
Ronny,
No you should not.
Peter
Sean,
The simple way to find out is to start out in 1st and shift into 3rd then give it gas to see if the clutch breaks away. If it is engaging near the top of the pedal then your clutch is pretty much at the end of it's life.
Peter
Mark Seibert,
It can be one of 4 things. 1st the clutch itself, 2nd the pilot bearing was damaged on the install, 3rd the transmission fluid, 4th the hydraulics. If the clutch is engaging where it should be then you can eliminate the hydraulics. You can try changing transmission fluids, short of that it will require getting back into the clutch system for the bearing or clutch.
Peter
Jeremy,
Simply unbolt it from the crank.
Peter
MARK ZICCARDI,
At the slave cylinder.
Peter
We replaced the master and slave cylenders. And now we need to bleed the clutch. However, we cannot figure out how to do that. So my question is...HOW DO I BLEED A CLUTCH FOR A 94 DODGE DAKOTA? Ive been looking for the little valve, but cant find one.
My 87 escort won't disengage the clutch when I push in the clutch pedal?
(continuation from two messages back). We looked at the book, and realized that dodge intended the system to be replaced as one compleat piece (from resovoir to plate). but we had tried to save a bit of money and only replace the parts that needed replacing. so do you have any suggestions on how to cheat it, and get some pressure back into the pipes?
when going from 1st to second it like bucks! if i wind out 1st why does it do that if i go slow it dont buck help me out please
Which clutches do you have that will work in my car, that is for the weekend racer, but also a smooth driver in heavy traffic? Thanx
I have 12000 miles on my truck and dualmass flywheel keep coming out every 3000 miles. Is there a different flywheel I can use like a one piece flywheel.
I have replaced the clutch the master cylinder and the slave cylinder i have bled and bled it and i have no clutch pedaol pressure pleasr tell me what i am doing wrong or what i can do to fix it
my clutch got suck on the floor while I was driving it yesterday , it comes off but it has no pressure what so ever and it gets stuck back on the floor again ... I had a new clutch put in 4 months ago and its under warranty , I just wanted to know what kind of repairs I can be expecting and what happened , and how I can prevent it from happening again
Luna,
It should be on the housing of the slave cylinder, if there is one.
Peter
michael gately,
If the clutch is not disintegrated then I would recommend replacing the clutch cable.
Peter
Luna,
If there is not a bleeder on the slave cylinder itself then you will have to manually bleed it. This process is called bench bleeding. Unhook everything and assemble off the truck. Then support the master cylinder in a vice and physically push in on the rod with the cap off the master cylinder reservoir very slowly, keeping fluid at hand to refill the reservoir when you release the push rod of the slave. Do this at least 3 to 4 times until you see all the air gurgle out of the master cylinder and all that you see is fluid transfer. Put the cap on the reservoir and reinstall the unit as an assembly.
Peter
Sean,
I'm not sure if you are getting clutch chatter or bucking or if it is a lack of fuel problem. This is also an older vehicle so I would check your engine and transmission mounts.
Peter
Jeremy Copeland,
We have many options for this application. Please contact Eddie here at South Bend Clutch and he will guide you to the correct clutch for your application. 800-988-4345.
Peter
Jared,
We are diligently working on a flywheel replacement but it not available at this time.
Peter
Steve,
You either got a defective system from the manufacturer or you still have air in the system. Try pumping the pedal 50 times and on the 50th time hold the pedal down, crack the bleeder and see if you get any spitting. Once fluid starts to run, close the bleeder and let up on the clutch pedal. Do this 2-3 times or until no more air escapes from the bleeder screw. Hope this helps.
Peter
Pete,
I would guess that your hydraulics took a dump so try replacing the master and the slave. If this does not work you will need to get inside to see what is wrong with the clutch and clutch fork.
Peter
truck would sometimes start if you messed with clutch now it wont start at all is there a way to test the clutch switch
My clutch pedel is to the floor and is very soft, is my clutch going out or is the master cylinder bad? Looking for help
how much does this vehicle weigh with no gas in it?
have replaced all hydro and mech parts of this extreamly challanging vehicle ! and still no clutch !! could the push rod from the slave cylinder to the control arm be too short. when i remove the spacer block from between the slave cyl and the bell housing , push the slave cyl completely forward , is the only time i get good clutch action. this one has me baffled.
how do you ajust the clutch and is there a softer pedal possibility
How do i adjust the clutch it's hydrolic
I am looking for a recomendation for a new clutch. Vehicle has a 6.2 non trubo diesel. Occasionally tow a small camper. I want a clutch that holds well, doesnt chatter and doesnt need a popeye leg to push! The easier the effort the better. Current clutch brand unknown- is awful! Push it all the way down- when you let up the diaphram spring shoots the pedal up at you! Not able to slip at all! Anyway- I am interested in your products- can you hook me up??
what are the bleeding instructions for a hydrolic clutch on a '95 saturn SC-2
Car hesitates in accelerating in second gear only...tends to happen when the car isn't warmed up. Could this be clutch related?
Installed new clutch, clutch master. Can cycle through all gears when not running. Truck won't start without grounding the starter selenoid (like the neutral safety is engaged) and once running can't get into any gear. Had problems bleeding the clutch down - replaced everything now have full throwout motion but still wont go into gear when running. Does the neutral safety lock out the tranny somehow and is this the likely problem?
jamie trent,
Not that I know of, other then replacing it.
Peter
Clint Chew,
I would think it would be your master and slave cylinder. Replace those and see if that helps.
Peter
terry,
Look on your driver's door.
Peter
Dave,
We have found that after replacing the clutch with another OE clutch this problem occurs on your type of vehicle. We have opted to switch to the S10 pressure plate and clutch disc to aleviate this problem from happening. Feel free to call us. Peter
wayne filer,
There really is no adjusting the clutch, check the ratchet system under the clutch pedal for damage or wear.
Peter
wayne filer,
Also, check the bracket where the cable hooks up under the dash and see if the weld has broken loose. Also, see if your cable runs by the exhaust manifold. Sometimes it helps to wrap it with exhaust tape to protect it from the heat and swelling
Dean Sanchez,
You can't.
Peter
Brian,
Feel free to call me on this.
Peter 800-988-4345
Emmy Comstock,
All bleeding screws, if there is one, will be located on the slave cylinder. Pump the clutch pedal a minimum of 25 times holding down on the last pump and crack the bleeder. Allow the air to escape and close the bleeder. Repeat as needed.
Peter
beth,
I would not think so.
Peter
Ed,
The switch can go bad and cause those kinds of problems. You should try replacing the switch.
Peter
My Overdrive Off button is constantly going on and off and switching gears..what should be done?Or what problem does this sound like?
Great site! (70k miles, clutch and throwout bearing replaces at 60K) In general the clutch seems to work great (disengages with ~1.5inches depression of pedal, doesn't slip in 2nd or 3rd etc.) However, I cannot easily get into first geat from a stop. If I can get into 2nd (while at stop), I can get back into 1st. Also it seems that fully depressing the clutch - pedal into the firewall helps.
How do I properly bleed the transmission.
I had a clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and slave cylinder rebuild done. The mechanic also had a reconditioned flywheel installed at the time. After getting the truck back, there is a noticeable "vibration" at idle and under load. There was no vibration before the clutch assembly was changed. Also, the main bearing seal was changed. The mechanic changed the flywheel 3 times, and it got better, but did not eliminate the vibration. I need help! Any ideas?
Hi! Peter I bought my truck new. I've had a little clutch or trans. rattle since new at low rpm's. The rattle seem's to be getting worse as time goes on (35,000 miles). I tow up to 15,000 lbs. on a regular basis. I was wondering how strong is the o.e. clutch, how many miles can I expect out of it & is the rattle I hear the center coming apart. Would you recommend your new double disc clutch as a replacement.
Thanks Jerry
Nathan Phillips,
That is not our field of expertise.
Sorry.
Peter
Steve M,
I would suggest replacing your clutch cable if pushing the clutch pedal to the floor helps because this tells me you still have some travel situation.
Peter
Brad Perry,
Not sure I've ever heard of bleeding the transmission. If it's the clutch you're speaking of please read above, you'll find many explanations.
Peter
Dave McGinnis,
I would find out if he is using the proper flywheel for the year truck you have. I have heard of companies using flywheel exchange programs and this has always scared me. I'm a fan of putting back in you vehicle what you took out. If the original flywheel caused vibration after is was machined I would find out how he is doing his machine work. This may be the problem.
Peter
Jerry Turk,
I would definitely not recommend the double disc clutch for your application. The rattle you hear is simply the springs in the clutch disc. It is not hurting anything and the OEM clutch is plenty strong for the stock engines even if you are towing heavy. Of course that depends on the driver. LOL
Peter
I removed my shifter from the manual transmission in another gear than park before i removed the transmission after reinatalling the transmission it will not shift
what is the name of the part that holds the stick shift and the cables that lead to the gear box
I just had a new clutch installed and it started slipping a week later. It seems to do it more when engine is hot but not always. What could be going on with it?
I DID A 5 SPEED SWAP 6,000 MILES AGO. I USED YOUR MU0090 C CLUTCH AS SOLD TO ME BY DIESEL DYNAMICS. NOW I CANNOT SHIFT OUT OF REVERSE WHEN I COME TO STOP AFTER BACKING UP. IT SEEMS AS THOUGH THE CLUTCH DOESN'T DISENGAGE ALL THE WAY. TO GET THE TRUCK GOING, HOWEVER, I HAVE LET THE PEDAL WAY UP LIKE IT WAS WHEN IT WAS NEW! THE TRUCK MAKES 350 HORSE WHILE TOWING. ALL THE TRUCK IS USED FOR IS TOWING ON WEEKENDS. THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP.
my manual clutch releases when the pedal is depressed almost to the floor, are there any adjustments?
this is a good one, its a total mongrel, heres what i have: 60 jeep w/ an 85 corvette hydraulic clutch setup and bellhousing attached to the original t-90 trans, I'm using a stock replacement 10 spline clutch and pressure plate for an 80 v-6 chevy malibu, the throw out bearing, i believe is timken part# 614037 and will fit a 56 chevy or something, i was running a 229 v-6 and just swapped in a 4.3l v-6 which is identical, my problem is my clutch will not release now, i had this problem before when i was originally setting it up before with the 229 and the longer throwout bearing cured it, but all i changed this time was the engine, it is all completely identical to the way it was before, ive already had it apart and found nothing obvious and back together. i bled the slave a few times although it was never touched, it doesnt leak or anything and appears to work properly. ive replaced more engines and clutches than i can count, but this one is messing with me, any ideas would be apprieciated...
I installed a new clutch master cylinder and am having trouble bleeding it I tried to gravity bleed and the pump it 10 times and still do not haveany pedal any sugestions?
when i start my car in the morning i hear like a grinding sound then after like later i will start it leaving work and its gone someone told me its my throwout bearing that it is worn would this cause this wierd noise thanx u 4 your help hopefully u can give me a straight answer!!!
i am installing a muncie 4 speed ,hurst shifter,and a 455 olds motor in my car. it was an automatic. i would like to keep the original type master cylender that came new with my baer brakes,and use the new hydrolic throwout bearing i had installed in my trans.what type of clutch,brake pedal assembly can i use to make it all come together and work properly....thanks.
Was rocking vehicle out of mudhole,smelled slight burning of brake fluid.After stopped,checked clutch master cylinder-empty.Clutch went all way to floor,would not engage gears.Could not shift into reverse with or without clutch depressed but without using clutch could shift into some other gears.Towed home.Put in DOT 3 fluid into master cylinder and jumped under truck to look for leaks.There's two pre-cut 21/2"longx1/4" slots, one below clutch housing,one up on tranny.Fluid ran straight from master cylinder and came out slot below clutch housing.My Haynes manual says one of two things:Bleed clutch line or I've got a warped or damaged clutch plate. Problem on bleeding (and I know how to do that on brakes and clutches)is Haynes says "remove dust cap that fits over bleeder valve before bleeding. I can't find bleeder valve. Is it in that "hole" inside the slot and could I have blown/scraped off the cover by rocking the truck out of the deep mud hole? Because that slot is awful low and it would seem without a cover that any splash of water would get in there. OR is that supposed to be an inspection hole, because there's another uncovered one on the transmission about 6" away but above, not below. I'm I just not finding the bleeder valve is something else wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated because this is my only work truck! Thanks!
My daughters 1993 Probe is making a screech when she goes from 1st to 2nd geers on Up shift and an all Down shifts. I'm tbl. shooting from 150 miles away. I think it is the throwout bearing. What does it take to replace the throwout bearing on a 1993 Probe/Mazda 5 speed?
My daughters 1993 Probe is making a screech when she goes from 1st to 2nd geers on Up shift and an all Down shifts. I'm tbl. shooting from 150 miles away. I think it is the throwout bearing. What does it take to replace the throwout bearing on a 1993 Probe/Mazda 5 speed?
Clutch pedal all the way to the floor after intense shifting from 1st to reverse while trying to "rock" truck out of deep mudhole.Clutch will not engage at all.Without clutch, can shift into all gears (engine off) except reverse.No hydraulic (brake)fluid in master cylinder, it leaks by gravity straight to where the clutch plate is and out a pre-cut "hole" (looks like an inspection hole because there's another on top,near the trans.Cannot find the bleeder valve or its cap to bleed and check for leaks.Was there a cap over this "inspection" hole as I call it (its 21/2"longx1/4" and there's one right in and below the clutch housing and one on the upper left behind the housing. 2 questions: Where's the slave cylinder, in front, behind firewall or in the clutch housing? If these are inspection holes there precisely cut but the lowest one under the clutch housing is wide open and definately subject to getting water/mud/dirt in there. Was there a cap I may have blown out by excessive pressure or scraped off trying to "rock" out of the mudhole? My Haynes Ranger manual says "the pedal to the floor and won't go into reverse can only be two things: 1)no fluid (all the fluid runs straight out as I indicated) or a warped/damaged clutch plate. Any ideas? Please!!!! P.S. Where in the hell is the slave cylinder so I can check the bleeder valve and cap that goes over it, that's the no. 1 recommendation of the Haynes Ranger Repair Manual
on my car sometimes not all the time the clutch pedels gets stuck to floor and the shifter also gets stuck at same time what could that be? any ideas will help. Thanks
How do i bleed the hydraulic clutch on my 1998 Dodge Ram 1500?
I just changed my slave and master cylinders,but the clutch doesnt engage until im just about to the floor with the pedal.How do i bleed the air out?
same problem as most.. replaced clutch pressure plate and slave cylinder (Dynamax) have been bleeding for 3 days clutch works engages and dis-engages but still won't go in gear well.. it will but have to push real hard or tries to grind going into reverse. have tried MightyVac and bleeding without pressure.. have tried pumping pedal according to Haynes stupid book
and tried just pumping one time hold it and tighten.. seems to show bubbles here and there then i will get a fu